Gucci debuts on the runway as the fashion industry awaits a new designer

 GUCCI

As the industry waits for owner kering to choose a new designer for the company Gucci launched Milan Fashion Week on Friday with a lineup of slouchy androgynous menswear designs.

Following the abrupt departure of Alessandro Michele the flamboyant designer who was a favourite of Harry Styles and Lady Gaga in November French luxury group kering is under pressure to quickly find a replacement and reignite sales growth at its largest brand which accounted for two thirds of profits in 2021.

The issue of who would drive Gucci creative path hung over the Italian fashion capital first men's show in three years. Events continue until January 17 attracting a large crowd of key retail buyers who are determining which fashions will be future best sellers.

Gucci's catwalk display on Friday had traces of Michele's unconventional, gender-fluid looks.

Models paraded around a darkened room to the growling music of live band Marc Ribot's Ceramic Dog wearing oversize suit coats with wide lapels and ample pleated trousers in pale beige and pastel tones along with new renditions of house classics and reminders of Michele's tenure, such as furry horse bit embellished slippers.

A palette cleanser after the designs we've seen over the last several seasons said Simon Longland head of menswear and womenswear at Harrods in London.

He described the presentation as a fresh approach to house designs with a variety of materials and jacket forms that would likely appeal to both lovers of the brand's distinctive looks and new buyers.

Show remarks which purchasers examine for clues about the label's next actions mentioned improvisation and teamwork.

Collective expressions are formed when the unfettered impulses of separate brains interconnect according to the brand's notes.

Shimmery silver slacks and quilted motorcycle boots brought a splash of glam to the neutral colored ensembles which were admired by celebrities such as K-pop singer Kai, American football player Jalen Ramsey, and Italian rock band maneskin.

According to UBS kering's fourth quarter sales decreased by roughly 11%, presumably one of the most dramatic slowdowns among the world's major fashion companies as tight Covid-19 regulations hurt on business in China.

More of the same would not help the brand restore its relevance with consumers according to Luca Solca analyst at Bernstein who also noted that the longer kering waits for a new Gucci creative director the worse the prognosis for the company becomes.

Timeless Styles, Marketing Spending

HSBC analysts on the other hand, predicted progress this year regardless of who assumes creative control saying actions done before to Michele's departure might smooth the transition.

They cited a recent focus on classic styles and more expensive goods as well as an increase in marketing spending and the quantity of collections, as factors that are likely accelerating growth.

While larger rival LVMH's two flagship brands Louis Vuitton and Dior pushed on with their marketing initiatives during the epidemic Gucci sat back. According to experts this helped them gain ground on competitors.

Saint Laurent Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga three of kering's lesser fashion labels had all been expanding rapidly at the end of the previous year but Balenciaga became embroiled in a scandal after a Christmas ad campaign sparked claims of improper images with youngsters.

The industry anticipates significant adjustments at other blockbuster labels.

This week announcement of top management changes at Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior sparked speculation that a design team reorganisation would follow. This speculation included the menswear division of Louis Vuitton which has relied on the design studio team since the death of creative director Virgil Abloh in late 2021.